Openers fail in a small number of predictable ways, and a decent proportion of “the motor's dead” callouts turn out to be a setting, a sensor or a worn plastic gear rather than a dead motor.
Common faults, and what they usually mean
The motor runs but the door doesn't move
Usually a stripped drive gear, or a slipped belt or chain. Repairable on most units, and much cheaper than replacing the opener.
Nothing happens at all
Check the obvious first: power at the socket, and whether the door has been left disengaged on its manual release cord. Beyond that it's typically the logic board or the capacitor.
The door starts closing then reverses
Almost always the safety beams: misaligned, dirty, or with something sitting in the beam path. Occasionally a force setting that's drifted. This one is often a five-minute fix.
The remote stopped working
Battery first, then reprogramming. If the wall button works and the remote doesn't, it's the remote or the receiver, not the motor.
It's getting noisy and slow
An older chain drive nearing the end of its life. Worth pricing a replacement against a repair.
Repair or replace?
Under about eight years old with a common fault: repair. Over about twelve, or a discontinued unit where parts have to be chased: replacement usually costs less over the following two years, and gets you rolling-code security and a soft-start motor that doesn't wake the house.
We'll give you both numbers and let you choose.
What we install
Merlin and Dominator openers are the mainstream choice here and we service and install both, along with Garador. Belt drive if the garage shares a wall with a bedroom; chain drive if it doesn't and you'd rather spend less.
A security note worth knowing. Fixed-code remotes from before roughly 2005 can be copied by a scanner in seconds. If your remote has DIP switches inside the battery cover, it's fixed-code, and a rolling-code upgrade is the cheapest security improvement available to your house.
What it costs
Repairing an opener and replacing one are very different numbers, so we price both and let you choose. Either way you'll know before we start.
Common questions
Nearly always the safety beams: misaligned, dirty lenses, or an obstruction in the beam path. Clean the lenses, check both indicator lights are steady, and confirm the beams are aimed at each other.
Usually, if it's compatible with your opener. Bring the model number when you call and we'll tell you before we come out.
Roughly: under eight years, repair; over twelve, replace. In between we'll price both and let you decide.
In most cases yes, provided the door is in good, balanced working condition. We inspect it first to make sure it's suitable, because automating an unbalanced door just burns out the new motor.